A bit on gluing plastic and rubber to metal, especially around Gasoline or metal cutting coolant. Since metal coolants are very active as solvents to most glues, and paints getting stuff like chip flaps and rubber splash guards to stay attached is a tough chore. The one and only one glue that I have found that is truly coolant proof and gasoline proof is called Pliobond. This solvent based adhesive is used usually as a contact type glue to glue rubber, plastic wood and glass to it self and to metal. It is a tan-brown liquid. Comes in metal cans. It comes with different consistencies like Pliobond 10 up to Pliobond 40. Used for things like gluing the rubber de-icer boots to airplane wing leading edges and other very difficult applications. Apply with a disposable brush, have acetone for handy for clean up, and follow the directions. In one machine clamping application using a dense foam as a cushion to prevent marring of the cut parts, the mist coolant for the saw would dissolve the regular contact glue quickly. Once cured the Pliobond 35 is coolant proof. When the foam wears out instead of falling off quickly, the glue line is removed with a 4" twisted knot cup brush as it is still hard and stuck.

To paint items that get exposed to machine coolant, one needs to strip off the old paint, solvent degrease to high cleanliness, and then paint with a catalytic cured paint, NOT a solvent based paint such as Latex or enamel. The solvent cured paints shrink as the solvent evaporates and the micro fissures and pin holes form shrinkage allow the coolant to enter the bond line and float the paint. That is why the paint pretty much slides off as a slimy mess if you use the wrong paint system. When we moved Vogt, the roughly 450 machine tools from the old plant across the river to Indiana, we cleaned and painted every single machine. Used a catalyst cured polyurethane and they were still looking very good 7 years later when the plant closed.

Written by Jeff Reinhardt